Paris Brest Paris 2023

19–28 minutes

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This was my third time doing Paris Brest Paris after barely completing it in 2015 and then finishing as the first Bulgarian in 2019.

We had fantastic photos taken in front of the Château de Rambouillet. One was with Randonneurs USA ( 461 riders in this edition). The other one with La Société Adrian Hands .

Randonneurs USA

The Society I wanted to enter this time was called Charlie Miller and recognized by RUSA. He was from Chicago and the first American to race Paris-Brest-Paris. In the second edition of PBP, in 1901, he finished an excellent fifth place in 56 hours, 40 minutes. This was an outstanding achievement for unsupported rider, especially when one considers the poor roads and bicycles of that bygone era. I thought this would be a fantastic goal after gaining US citizenship.

La Société Adrian Hands

My hotel was around 18 miles from the starting line, which is ideal, much like the last time. Good distance to use as a shakeout ride before the event. I wound up on a mile and a half of gravel, not a big deal, but I crashed and my event hasn’t even started!

Can we start already?

My plan was very simple yet hard to execute. I wanted to average 15 miles an hour moving speed, which is going to give me about 50 hours and 35 minutes for the 760 miles ( ~1200 km). That allows for six hours and five minutes for few quick cat naps and time wasted at controls.

I designated half of that time for sleep, figuring three hours would be sufficient. In fact, I’m proud of myself for completing the event while taking two 1-hour sleep breaks and two 20-minute naps. However, I probably lost almost 5 hours in all when you factor in eating, going the restroom, and other things.

I did meet 3 fast Bulgarians before the start- Iliyan Lisea, Petko Matarov and Nikolay Mitev. It was great to reconnect with Nikolay and meet Iliyan and Petko for first time.

Iliyan Lisea, Petko Matarov and Nikolay Mitev

As we were approaching the arch on the grand depart, I met the founder of Randonneurs Bulgaria- Dimitar Balanski. He was one of my teachers early on and was doing his 7th PBP ! ! !

Dimitar Balanski

We started in the same wave at 16:15 local time. I was simply taking it easy in the shade before the event started as I thought there would be a lot of waiting. We ended up spending an hour and a half in the heat, and I quickly felt the effects. For the upcoming edition, I’m employing a Formula One gal with an umbrella:)

The group was starting at 16:15, but I think it was ~300 riders and my actual start time was 16:18:38. I started toward the end on purpose since I didn’t want to push myself too hard at the beginning like I did the prior time and blow up.

Typically, things become a little dicey up front. Since I started at the rear of the pack, I was able to advance to the front with ease. By simply following the lead guys, I was able to keep a three-minute gap.

I ran across a good number of people I knew, including Thai and Chris, who also started in my group. The Seattle Randonneurs Jerseys cant be mistaken on the road.

Thai and Chris

Pacing is crucial, I kept telling myself, and more significantly, my buddy’s advice kept echoing in my head: “Don’t start racing like a dipshit”. I will undoubtedly struggle in the second half of this event if I don’t pace it effectively at the beginning. And this is only true unless your first name is Nick (the guy who finished first ) and you can sustain this kind of effort for 2 days nonstop.

My approach was to conserve energy, avoid blowing up, and learn from my past errors. Being caught up in a fast-moving group is never difficult. After everything we had to go through just to be at the starting line, it’s heartbreaking to see that there were so many crashes.

Patrick Chin-Hong and I ran across each other a few miles after the start and stayed together for a while.

Patrick Chin-Hong

I then went ahead but my chain decided to drop. Up until that point, my Bulgarian friends were close behind me. It wasn’t anything serious, and thankfully, it didn’t happen again.

Everything suddenly shifted after that, and I have no idea what happened. Several other guys had similar experience. Despite the fact that I wasn’t chasing or pushing particularly hard, my heart rate suddenly increased. My heart rate and the amount of power I should be producing at a specific heart rate are numbers I am aware of, but something didn’t feel right. Is this a serious health problem? Is it possible that my heart rate monitor is broken or inaccurate?

My NP in the first hour was 195W, or 2.5 W/Kg, yet my heart rate was 166 on average and 185 at its highest. It continued to stay high, as shown in the graph below. Puzzling. . .

The lack of energy I experienced just a few hours after we departed was so strange. I had breathing issues, cramping, and even popping in my ears all day long. What is happening ?  I can only think of jet lag from arriving just two days before the event or sitting in the sun before we started.

The pace was solid but I wasn’t attacking or doing anything crazy like in 2015. Our average speed was 22.3 Mph (35.8 km/h) and towards the end of that stage, it dropped to 17 Mph (27 km/h). I mean, it was significant, I was basically crawling. The distance to the first checkpoint (not control) at Mortagne-Au-Perche was 119 km ( ~74 miles). That would usually take me under 4 hours and with a large group drafting, even faster. It took me 5 hours to get there. . .

I began to think about visiting the doctor, but I was determined not to give up. I stopped using all the powders and gels, slowed down, drank some pure water, and took it easy till I felt better. This is what I always do.

No matter how capable or prepared you believe you are, circumstances like these provide challenges and push you to the limit. That being said, this was not what I had planned. After all, no one ever promised it would be simple.

Even when my hopes were crushed, I maintained my sense of optimism. I reasoned that if I get better quickly, I should be able to finish faster the second half of the event. Considering that I started out rather slowly, was it possible for me to finish quicker on the way back to Paris? While I have an extremely tall ladder to climb, I feel confident in my abilities and believe I still have a chance to finish in less than 56:40. I came here to fight!

Maybe there is a chance even if I didn’t reach Brest in a day? Looking at the GPS data now, my power meter died at hour seven. Naturally, I wanted to pace by power because it’s incredibly helpful, but I also didn’t want to see it at all on my GPS screen because I was moving so slowly.

I finally made it to Mortagne-Au-Perche after nearly five hours, where Lisa was waiting for my friend Perry. The cramps were severe. I was sitting down on the curve and attempting to digest a sandwich when she asked how I was doing. You could see my muscles spasming as I attempted to stand up.

It was a little discouraging to think that a year prior, I had raced 250 miles (402 km) with only five seconds of stopping time, and now, after five hours at a far slower pace, I was cramping.

After 84 kilometers, I reached my favorite control, Villaines-La-Juhel, and was beginning to feel a little better. The fact that it was nighttime and cooler helped greatly. Maybe next time I should start later to avoid the first few hours of heat? Between Mortagne-au-Perche and Villaines, I biked 3 miles per hour faster, arriving in 8:05. Not a bad time for 200 km, I suppose. Of course, I wanted to move faster, but being patient was very important. Despite all of these issues, my time was only 50 seconds slower than in 2019 for this distance!

Here is an illustration of my data for the first seven hours following the demise of my power meter before the control: Even though I was taking it easy, my average heart rate, which was 142, was still elevated. Only 1.27 W or 137 W NP.

One issue becomes better and a new one arises, as is typical with such distances. Finding positivity and concentrating on a new problem is how my brain is programmed. I tend to forget about my earlier problems because of this.

It was hot at the start but I was acclimated to 100F ( 37C) humid weather and it was only 31C (88F)

Saddle sores were becoming a problem. I was an ambassador for Infinity Bike Seats, and usually have no problems there, so it was kind of embarrassing and surprising. But it wasn’t the seat; rather, it was a poor choice on my part. I had just purchased new set of bibs and hadn’t worn them before the event. They turned out a little too large, causing terrible friction. Word of advice for people always thinking the seat is the problem – check your bibs. Some of those areas were a little troublesome and tender now. . . I had to shift a lot, and this was an issue all the way through.

I pushed on and completed the 182 miles (292 km) stage to Fougeres in 11:49, two minutes quicker than in 2019. I had now completed one-fourth of the route. Of course, I was thinking that 12 times 4 equal 48 hours and that I was in good shape. Perhaps it was meant for me to slow down and this is helpful in the long run?

I couldn’t wait to get better and go as hard as I knew I could!

Unfortunately, I was in a huge group and kept seeing letters C, D, and E pass me. Things eventually started to improve, and I came across a solid group of 20 riders, featuring French and Italian cyclists. It was dark and they were descending at 45 miles per hour (70 kilometers per hour), pure speed demons! The pulls at the front were intense, and I was able to maintain my position. We got along fantastically well!

Half of them were from the same team, perhaps in their late 50s or early 60s. These randonneurs were strong and they were all used to riding in a pack. It was breathtaking to watch how smoothly we were moving. It was like a wonderful symphony and quite fantastic to watch.

Maybe this was my chance to make up for lost time? It was the way to go if you’re comfortable in quick groups and willing to work. Nobody’s going to sit there and suck everyone’s wheels, it was a team effort! I had to call out few younger riders who thought they could just sit back and enjoy the draft.

We were 270 miles (435 kilometers) from the start when we arrived at Loudeac. I was around an hour slower than in 2019, though I struggled a bit before joining this quick group, especially at daybreak in the deep fog near Tinteniac. I was completely soaked, like if I had been riding in a rainstorm.

You attempt to plan ahead, but you can’t foresee everything. One must improvise on the go, and experience is invaluable. My GPS was about to die, and my brand new powerbank was unexpectedly empty. My phone’s battery was also running low. I did have a backup in the form of a charger for my 18650 headlight batteries that doubles as a power bank. I charged my GPS and pressed on.

Despite the fact that our group would split at the controls, we would ultimately reconnect on the road afterwards. My main goal was to reach Brest (the midway point) and then return to Rambouillet. I slept there the previous year, but this time, I intended to go farther.

Brest

I arrived in Brest after 27 hours and 24 minutes, or around 1 hour and 20 minutes slower compared to 2019. This was quite disheartening because I knew I had the legs for a 22-23 hour arrival. There was nothing I can do but adjust and keep going.

I went down to sleep for an hour at Carhaix-Ploughuer . This section was new and hillier than in 2019. I was here 1h faster compared to 2019. In reality, I probably lost 1.5 hours after visit to the toilet ,getting my brevet card stamped and grabbing some food.

My phone was at 5% battery life and I was concerned it might die while I rested, so I asked a rider if he could wake me up. Apparently, he knew of me from Instagram but sadly told me he was ready to depart. I was tucked behind a table at the restaurant that was mostly empty. A cyclist about six feet away was preparing to sleep and promised to wake me up. Thankfully, I got up on my own some 55 minutes later.

Next stop was Loudeac again (486 / 760 miles), and wow, was it wild there! I began to run into more of the slower folks. They were still on their way to Brest. The vast majority of people spend their first night here. It looked like a set from The Walking Dead :)

I mean, no offense to anyone, but it was a complete mess. Twelve years ago, I was one of those men from the pictures below. To be honest, it smelled like a farm, or more specifically, rando farm :) Fortunately, I knew there were two restaurants, one for cold meals and one for warm food (hidden at first glance). The situation was slightly better where cooked meals were prepared and I decided to stay there for a bit.

Here is a random Facebook Photo dump for context :)

People were sleeping on the floor of the restroom hallway, beneath the tables, against the wall, on benches, in the grassy area… you name it. Everyone was exhausted, and some were quitting here. According to the statistics, around one-third of the DNFs occur here and in Brest.

I was determined to complete the event. Everything was improving slowly too. My last PBP in 2019 still gives me shivers as my neck gave up somewhere in this section.

I tried avoiding using caffeine gum until I really needed it, and yes, now was the time to pop few more. I caught myself few times dozing off and drifting to the left side of the road. I was closing in on TInteniac before we reached Fougere ( 300 km before the finish). I kept bumping into the same strong group of riders, maybe five of them from Mayenne.

Here I was, no phone, no power bank and now my best idea was to spot someone with a dynamo. Thank goodness, I discovered a rider who had a Dynamo Hub. Thiery was his name, and he agreed to charge my GPS until we get to Fougere. We were talking about the many parts of France and how life is different there from the United States and Bulgaria. Our group grew bigger and bigger as the headwind was also getting stronger and stronger. Sadly, when we got there, we discovered that the GPS was not charging because of a poor connection.

I also met Jill Sommerville, a powerful woman from the United Kingdom. In fact, she was the tenth fastest female at PBP! She struggled a little in the wind, however it was fantastic to have her in our small group and work together. She complained that the route was monotonous and not scenic, but there was nothing I could do about that :) We continued bumping into one other from here on.

When I met her, she seemed to be in an awful state. But, you know, this is what makes the story entertaining and what makes it PBP, so she simply needs to keep going. I tried to motivate her. When we were together, we helped each other here and there.

Soon thereafter, we arrived back in Fougères in the early afternoon. It was so freaking hot and I was starting to feel like crap once again. I also remember some decent climbs coming out of town. As I got off my bike at the control and realized that my GPS was at 4% battery, Shab appeared out of nowhere and was snapping pictures of me. She is a legend!

Photo Credit: Marie Paule

It was time to saddle up again and go!

Photo credit: Shab Memar

I forgot to mention anything about my diet. It stared with Hammer Nutrition gels, bars, Heed & Pepeteum in my bottles. It kind of shifted to jambon baguettes, fan favorite :) butter , ham and cheese.

Eating one at a time and putting two more in my jersey pockets for the road quickly became the routine. Coca-Cola consumption also started to become routine, even though I don’t normally drink soda outside of when I’m competing or riding a lengthy bike event. In addition, I stopped for a few excellent warm meals on the way back because my body was craving it. I was sick to my stomach from the gels and bars. It takes a little bit longer to digest and that is energy used but it had to be done.

The scenery was stunning even though there were no difficult mountain passes to cross; in fact, the highest point is only about 300 meters (980 feet) above sea level. France’s Brittany region is more of a rural, working-class area. It is essential to supplying the food that each and every Frenchman puts on his dinner table.

The locals are quite wonderful and love Paris Brest Paris. After all, it has been going on since 1981, and many Brittany residents actively take part in it. For instance, the five riders in my group are from Mayenne, a town located halfway between Alencon and Fougere.

They set up tables for us, prepare food, and fill our bottles. It is one of the key component making Paris Brest Paris such an unforgettable event. Children are coming out to give us high fives and chase us down the road. In order to give back to the kids and everyone else who was helping us, I had some buttons created featuring my ugly face and the flag of Brittany. Amazingly, even though I was the only person passing through the little towns and villages, everyone was cheering as if the Tour was passing by.

Of course, I went to the famous crêperie in Ambrières-les-Vallées, close to Mayenne. They only requested that I send them a postcard when I return in exchange for the delicious food and beverages they provided. Although I had a great time chatting with the people there, I had to keep going.

These are the great people and roadside angels who, in my opinion, are one of the key factors that make PBP so unique!

A chatty man who was there invited me to take a nap on his mattress in front of his house. About three miles down the road, he instructed me to search for the house with a number of flags in front. I told him that although I currently hold dual citizenship and was born in Bulgaria, I was riding this edition as an American. Sure enough, a few miles after leaving, I came across a house with both the US and Bulgarian flags flying over the road. He ran in the center of the road when I arrived at his house to greet me, which was truly heartwarming experience.

He was very kind and actually told me – ” Monsieur, you have to use it. I know you’re rushing, but next time please feel free to stop and get a proper rest”. He handed me a piece of paper with his address and cheered me on with the usual , Allez, Bonne route, bonne courage ! Even if things may be difficult right now, situations like this inspire you to fight harder.

In every town, on every farm, and even at night, lights were illuminating, the residents had decorative bicycles of all different sizes and colors. Simply wonderful environment, I tell you that much.

The event have passed through the same communities for over 100 years. Numerous locals participate regularly for decades, and their families help to support the riders.

Villaines-la-Juhel

Again, this was my favorite control. Just like in 2019, it was late at night on the way back, but the crowds were still very large. We rolled underneath the big blow-up arch while being constantly cheered on by spectators. The Tour de France has previously used this town as well. Of course, it was situated on the hill, just like almost every town along the route.

Huge crowds were gathered beside where we park our bikes. They were seated above us close to the stairwells and on both sides of the street. It’s difficult to put into words how enthusiastic everyone was.

There was a little bit of walking involved at this control because the food establishments and the officials who stamped your card were on the opposite side of the street. I crossed the street after getting my brevet card stamped, and it made me think of my last PBP. I had barely even entered the restaurant when two girls began to follow me.

They asked me what I would like to eat so they could go get it for me and grabbed a food tray, some napkins, and a cup. They then started walking with me. I recall that Villaines-la-Juhel does it for everyone from my last visit. Those young helpers were assigned to help the riders. They led you to your table after taking care of gathering everything for us. This act of kindness was very special.

I spoke briefly with a few of the volunteers there and let them know how much I appreciate this control. They recommended me to try their soup because it was to die for ! I was starting to feel a little hungry and also grabbed some spaghetti and lentils. My newly acquired French friends, with whom I biked for a while arrived, and we had a great conversation. They enjoy the controls for a longer period of time than I do, and that’s fine. As soon as my food was done, I left since I was feeling stiff and cold.

As usual, shortly after I left the control, I ran into them again. For the final 200 km, we established a really solid group. My finishing time this year shows that instead of slowing down toward the end, my speed was remarkably consistent. However, the last time I had shermers neck issues, things were definitely terrible. . . At the end of a 1200 km ride, it felt amazing to still be in such good shape.

Knowing that there are just 200 kilometers remaining, I was giving it everything I had left. About 20 riders had joined our group at this point, and we were flying. Following Mortagne-au-Perche, the roads leading to Dreux had excellent pavement as well.

This is my third time participating in PBP, and after riding almost 2200 miles, I had no flat tires. At the front, we were taking steady, powerful pulls while collaborating well. These guys were workhorses, and our tempo was excellent. However, I believe they felt the need to prove something to one another at one point. Three guys started attacking and the group split. I closed the gap quickly and followed. My strong legs were back, a bit late but better late than never. The group dispersed; there were now 10 of us, then 5 and eventually, 3 in the end.

The first rider to attack finally gave up. Now that I was in the lead, I actually took a step back and waited for everyone since it was the polite thing to do. One of them briefly jumped onto my wheel before giving up. Once I put a massive effort, they simply dropped and had no chance of staying with me. This was fun.

When a few of the guys moved ahead, we let them go, regrouped, and continued to ride together as we formed our initial group, which may have shrunk to only 15 cyclists by this point.

I ran into my British friend again when I arrived in Dreux early in the morning. She appeared to be worn out and eager to finish. Less than 50 km remained now.

We were almost done, but I was having a few issues. It was slow going, the road wasn’t in great condition, and I was tired. At least the sun was rising and it no longer felt cold.

Together, we reached the finish line as a team. As they crossed the line, the boys started hugging. One of the guys in our group was celebrating his fifth PBP, and his pals were genuinely having a great time. Chapeau for at least 20 years of commitment!

Fini

We were quicker than the huge group with the 90-hour time limit, so there was no large crowds. On top of that, it was really hot. Riders from northern nations like Norway and Sweden were having a lot of difficulty, but I was accustomed to it.

Time for the wonderful post event meal provided by the organization. à bientôt France

I am not going to lie, I was feeling a bit destroyed but quite honestly, my recovery was smooth afterwards.

I earned my third PBP bling bling

As with previous years, the organization was excellent. I’m not sure what I’ll change for 2027. I might carry an umbrella with me or bring one of those Formula 1 girls over. Sitting in the heat for an hour and a half before the start was tough. Although I might have gone a little bit faster, I decided to take my time and enjoy the company of several  locals who operate roadside stalls that hand out food and drinks when I realized that I would soon run out of Charlie Miller time.

Before PBP 2027, there are a few things I need to take care of. To better adjust, I must arrive a little earlier. My diet also needs improvement. I had two 15-minute naps and two one-hour naps in total. But I need to get to Brest significantly faster and sleep less in order to complete PBP in Charlie Miller time of 56h40 min.

I’m not upset because my 66-hour completion time—14 hours short of the 80h time limit—is nothing to be ashamed of. In fact, I’m glad that this is going to enable me to improve on my mistakes, train harder, and come back even stronger for my fourth PBP.

My collection of PBP Memorabilia is growing and I cant wait for 2027

4 responses to “Paris Brest Paris 2023”

  1. Absolutely awesome! Thank you for writing about your adventures. You encourage a lot of us to keep on pedaling! I’ve noticed you haven’t mentioned a new shoe sponsor and I have not been able to figure out what you’re wearing nowadays. Please let me know! Thank you for what you do and share!

    Brian Morgan

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    1. Brian, thanks for reading. We have to keep pushing forward. Cycling has so many benefits on our health and life. The shoes have midfoot cleat position and are made by a company from Germany called Biomac.

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  2. Quite an inspiration, Georgi. Keep at ’em.

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    1. Georgi Stoychev Avatar
      Georgi Stoychev

      Thanks for the note Lane. Great seeing you. I am already in California getting ready for another race

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